Leanna's Argentina - Brazil Getaway

views of Rio from Corcovado

2011-02-18T17:11:00.000-08:00

Christ The Redeemer

2011-02-18T16:57:00.000-08:00

While visiting an outstretched armed Jesus Christ statue wasn't my top priority, I played along (see below) and ultimately took in some amazing views from atop Corcovado (hunchback mountain).

Views from the Trans-Harbor Ferry

2011-02-18T16:54:00.000-08:00

Haipuacu Beach

2011-02-18T16:46:00.000-08:00

Gorgeous cove...

This is where I took my last swim

2011-02-18T16:22:00.000-08:00

My last night in Brazil was spent at Regina's family reunion at a countryside house in Haipuacu, about an hour outside of Rio. We, like pretty much everyone else, arrived by bus and stayed overnight. After munching on salad and churrascaria (barbecued meat), I faced I could not fake another sentence of Portuguese and so I wandered off.

It was nice being out in the middle of what felt like nowhere--time to just reflect on where I'd been and what I'd figured out. Brazil is a huge and compelling country -- there is so much going on there (beaches, jungle, mountains, megacities, art, dance, music, indigenous peoples, Afro-Brazilian culture/spirituality) that many Brazilians are content to explore within rather than venture beyond their country's borders. Beyond their own borders, the country, language and culture they are most interested in is the USA. Their contact with Portugal is minimal compared to our contact with England. We devour British theater, music and media exports, while they consider Portugal to be culturally dull.

In the morning Regina and I walked down to the beach and I took a final swim. Afterwards we had some acai and another helping of coconut water. Eventually we found boarded a bus that took us to Niteroi where we caught a ferry that glided across the Rio Harbor.

Views from Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf)

2011-02-17T16:07:00.000-08:00

Rio de Janeiro - Beachscape and City

Ipanema Beach

Botafogo Harbor

Pao de Acucar

2011-02-17T08:37:00.000-08:00

Rio has two super-famous overlooks... Sugar Loaf (Pao de Acucar) and Christ the Redeemer (Corcovado). After Regina saw my photos from Pao de Acucar she became inspired to (once again) look at her city from high above..so the next day we both went to the Corcovado. At the first moments of the view, all I could do was gasp in amazement - I knew my camera couldn't do it justice. I just took it all in and breathed... Here are photos of the tram...

Here you can see one tram going and another coming...

The Beach Scene at Copacabana

2011-02-17T08:31:00.000-08:00

If you enlarge this photo, you will note that all females are wearing skimpy bikinis...

Sidewalk of Waves

2011-02-17T08:29:00.000-08:00

This runs along the edge of Copacabana Beach...

Copacabana Palace Hotel

2011-02-17T08:28:00.000-08:00

Didn't stay there this time...

Sand-cooling hose on Copacabana Beach

2011-02-17T08:25:00.000-08:00

No super-hot feet in the walk to the shore...

Sipping Coconuts with Regina in Copacabana

2011-02-08T16:26:00.000-08:00

Gorgeous Beach...Delicious Coconuts...

More Rio...

2011-02-08T16:22:00.000-08:00

After my day of wandering around somewhat aimlessly, Regina decided some-hands-on guidance was in order. (I’d been left to wander alone with a clear directive to be very careful and come back home before dark.) Being super-attentive, nothing untoward happened. Nonetheless, the fear of robbery and assault is palpable. All windows are barred and there is a ton of police presence in public parks and plazas. In part I did my solo wander because Regina’s Mom had a painful relapse of her bone cancer and the day was filled with getting her to the hospital – pick up narcotic painkillers, etc. That evening she moaned in pain – I felt so bad for her. Miraculously the next-morning she was puttering around the kitchen making breakfast for everyone. What an absolute trooper!

In that Mom was doing okay, Regina announced that she would take me out and about. First we took a meandering bus ride down to the Copacabana Beach. Yes, it’s gorgeous. One of my favorite innovations was a sprinkler tube that lay over the hot sand so that one might comfortably walk down to the perfect shore. We did a beach walk, bought coco’s gelados (chilled coconuts) and took it all in. Next we went to a kilo-restaurant (body-conscious Brazilians would not tolerate an all-you-can-eat buffet) and ate a bit of this and that. Then Regina went to a photography class and I took a tram up to Paio de Azucar (Sugar Loaf) mountain and marveled at the Rio Bay expanse. (When the first explorers “discovered” Rio de Janeiro – they thought the bay was a river and being January, they thus named it.)

Suddenly I found myself in the midst of a zillion international tour-groups with guides barking out directives in French, English, Spanish, German and Japanese. Their itineraries were packed with must see Rio-moments and mine was still unfolding. For a moment I wished it wasn’t on me to figure it all out and that 45 minutes later I would be surrendering my being to ready-transport to another hot spot. Instead, I spent several hours photographing the bay from different angles and levels. I quietly squeaked away amidst the flurry of barking guides and continued my wander. While Regina had suggested I might want to visit an indigenous people’s museums, I faced there really wasn’t time so I visited a huge shopping mall (and to my eyes a museum). It was kind of like the Beverly Center of Rio, replete with a food court, non-stop shoe stores, high and low-end fashion stores and hair / nail salons. Being a frumpy misfit I just looked and occasionally took photo notes….

Many Shades of Human

2011-02-08T16:02:00.000-08:00

Brazil sports this huge mix of cultures and colors. On the beach there are signs suggesting the level of sun protection one might use depending on how dark or light they are. And interracial love is the norm – with absolutely gorgeous results.

Ways to look thinner in Rio...

2011-02-08T15:57:00.000-08:00

Zero Barrigo (no tummy) bottoms Full body slimming suit

cold and sweet

2011-02-08T15:53:00.000-08:00

McDonalds Ice Cream Cafes are super popular

English is used liberally to sell tasty things...

Rio continued...

2011-02-08T15:26:00.000-08:00

Rio is a place of contrasts—there’s this free-wheeling lust for life, expressed through music, dance and fashion. Perhaps more than in any other part of Brazil, there’s this cult of the body. Women become obsessed with looking good—with having a lean sexy body with no untoward pubic hair. Thus the Brazilian wax—the thong bikini, etc. And women without flat tummies wear skimpy bikinis as well. Only very elderly women might be seen sporting one-piece attire. Off the beach there are skin-toned zero-barriga full/half body corsets. And to add to the chaos over the body there are non-stop opportunities to purchase snacks—saldados crunchy salty pastries often-filled with cheese. The cheese is delicious and whatever else is thrown in (tomatoes, olives, chicken) tastes great, too. Then there are sweets – frozen yogurt shops abound as do home-grown and Starbucks Coffee Houses. McDonalds Cafe’s and Ice creamerias are everywhere, too. It’s no doubt a challenging conundrum to look good amidst the constant temptation of goodies. My hostess Regina shared some of her strategies – drink coconut water instead of mineral water (it’s filling and thirst quenching). Don’t drink water with meals – let your stomach’s own juices do the digesting. I tried it, but then got super thirsty (she empathized) and so we ended up sharing a huge pitcher of coconut water…

Around Rio...

2011-02-05T04:33:00.000-08:00

Sky, clouds, trees, the top of the central library
Building side with dripping air conditioners

Alleyway Cafe

Around Rio de Janeiro..

2011-02-05T04:28:00.000-08:00

Watery reflections
Harbor Mural

View from the Harbor

Palm tree over the Harbor

Rio - First Look

2011-02-05T04:03:00.000-08:00

I'd heard about Rio de Janeiro forever--the famous beaches (Copacabana and Ipanema), it's obsessive cult of the body and it's dangerous favelas (slums). I had to come see it. But then there are the small stories of staying in a non-tourist neighborhood, buying bread at the corner bakery, and getting spun around a zillion times finding my way around. Generally, I'm a bit spent on sorting out new cities and squeaking by speaking fake Portuguese (throwing in Spanish, Italian and French and hoping people understand me).

Yesterday morning my host, Regina, proposed a huge number of things I might do. She told me where to catch a bus--I couldn't find it so I walked further and found a bus stop for many busses. I waited watching all these busses stop, not being able to figure out (or decide) which one to take. All I knew is that she lives in Maracana and that I should head south. Eventually, I boarded any bus, figuring they would all be heading south. At some point I was the last one on the bus and it started to turn around. The fare collector told me I'd have to pay again if I wanted to stay aboard. I figured we were somewhere, so I got off. It turned out I was at a ferry center where one could catch boats to the other side of the bay. I wandered and took photos.

Eventually I found my way into some galleries and exhibitions--the art scene (from my very limited vantage point) featured messy work by quite self-involved auteurs. There were rooms with scrawls on the walls, white canvasses with bits of scratchy color -- that kind of stuff. Sao Paulo's scene felt so much more sophisticated...

Eventually I took the subway back to Maracana and then got truly spun around. The stop seemed nowhere near anything I remember. I'd flash a piece of paper with the address of my host's condo and I'd either be pointed in a direction or I'd be told that they had no idea where it was. Then I remembered I had a map and lo and behold, I figured out where I was:)

Leaving Bahia

2011-02-04T05:50:00.000-08:00

I spent my last night in Bahia with Romero and Maina who live way out in a suburban beach town. Before going to their house, they insisted that we go back to the Yemanja Festival and take in this rock band, Mario Melo, which was offering a free concert in the streets. I got so tired from being on my (newly healed) feet for countless hours and weathering the super-intense crowds, that there were moments I thought I would just collapse. Instead we danced it all out and then that night I slept it off. The next day I went down to a really quiet and beautiful beach and rode the waves. I got a really bad sunburn, so something new to complain about...

That evening Romero drove me to the airport to catch a flight to Rio de Janeiro. This time I flew on Web Jet which must be the Ryan Air of Brazil. The seats were so close together there was absolutely no room to lean back and stretch one's legs (and I'm relatively short!) The one cute stand-out was that all of the flight attendants wore lime green webjet.com T-shirts that were the same color as the plane. Being so no-frills, they charged me 3 Reales for a glass of water...

Upon arrival in Rio (close to midnight) I went out to the curb and bargained for a taxi. Soon enough I arrived at the home of my final couchsurfing hostess, Regina. She's an attorney who lives in a nicely furnished condo with her ailing mother (cancer) and her two adopted/grown children. We immediately hit it off. Couchsurfing is amazing!!!

Yemanja Festival

2011-02-04T05:04:00.000-08:00

I timed my trip to Bahia to coincide with the February 2nd Yemanja Festa, celebrating the mermaid-goddess of the sea. Here celebrants gathered by the sea, bringing flower and perfume offerings. Baskets of flowers were then taken out by boat to the edges of the harbor. The streets were packed with people -- the air was filled with sea breezes, music and delicious Fejoada (bean pork stew) and plenty of cerveja (beer). The energy was non-stop amazing. (More photos are posted as an album on my Facebook -- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=330341&id=557152268&l=72b73ab6c6

Streets packed with celebrants - tents selling food and drink

Blessing

Flower bouquet being carried to the sea

Boat ride to deliver flower offerings

Feeling the energy...

The whole expanse of beach was filled with celebrants...

Candomble Ceremony

2011-02-04T04:50:00.000-08:00

What do you do if you're in Bahia for a very short time and a tour guide hands you a flyer for a "real deal" Candomble Ceremony? Well, you go. While my couchsurfing hosts were downright skeptical, it was in fact "real." That is it wasn't orchestrated for tourists like let's say a hotel-based Luau in Waikiki, Hawaii would be. It was in progress before our 5-person tour group arrived and continued after we left. And no effort was made to explain anything to us while it was going on.

Having seen many films of vodou practitioners going into mind-blowing body-trembling trance, I was a bit non-plussed. A couple of people writhed on the ground but hardly in a sustained trance-state. Mostly it was a small loving group of people doing a healing ceremony. At one point, I received a healing where branches were waved over my head and down by back and then my body was sprinkled with popcorn. Afterwards my foot did start feeling better...

Cigar smoke was a big thing -- honoring the sacred tobacco used by indigenous tribes of Brazil. And then sweet red wine (ala Manichewitz) was distributed. Drums beat, bodies swayed and no-doubt healing occurred. Later I was handed a plate of very typical Brazilian food (rice, fejoada (cooked beans with pork) and a gummy salty glob that was tan in color. I dutifully tasted it all and then ate the rice.

Too sacred for photos...just memories.

More from the Afro-Brazilian Museum

2011-02-04T04:44:00.000-08:00

Patio Labyrinth
Altar for Benin

A lot balancing on one head:)

Man does dog-spirit as part of a dream?

In search of Candomble in Bahia

2011-02-04T04:22:00.000-08:00

Salvador, Bahia was the first capital of Brazil and a major port for the arrival of African slaves. For about 40% of the slaves that arrived in the New World, Brazil became their new homeland. With so many, spiritual traditions from African practices like Yoruba remained strong. These were infused with Catholicism from the Portuguese and Italians, causing a vibrant syncretism to emerge. I came here to feel it... I wandered through the Afro-Brazilian Museo, noting objects honoring the different spirit entities...

Yemanja - Mermaid Goddess of the Sea

Xango - powerful spiritual entity

Ifa - Diviner, predictor of future events

Exu, eldest son of Yemanja

Antropologia Visual

2011-02-01T06:20:00.000-08:00

Found this in a junk shop -- it's exactly what I'm doing:)

Around Pelourinho - Salvador da Bahia's Old City

2011-02-01T06:14:00.000-08:00

Cluster of Cats

2011-02-01T06:13:00.000-08:00

No doubt friends and genetically related:)

Doggies in a Window

2011-02-01T06:10:00.000-08:00

This pair of dogs and the perfect barking post...and it is well used:)

Cliffside Elevator

2011-02-01T06:08:00.000-08:00

Long lines of shoppers take the 7-cent elevator up and down all day...

Salvador da Bahia Harbor

2011-02-01T06:03:00.000-08:00

From the upstairs of a cafe - gallery
Fishing Boats

Perfect Harbor View...

Exploring Daytime Bahia

2011-02-01T05:19:00.001-08:00

While the old centro of Bahia at night is crowded and intense, during the day it's a tourist mecca. There's a huge crafts market (Mercado Modelo)that's windswept by the fresh salty air of the harbor. Getting there involves taking a 7-cent elevator ride down to the edge of the harbor. Tour busses abounded as did mother-hen guides and their bewildered charges. Needless to say, I sorted it out on my own. The necklaces were wild and fun...and I bought and bought:)

After awhile I found my way onto the cobblestone paths of the old city and just took it all in. While I had a list of museums I hoped to see, mostly I just wandered into galleries and photographed the delicious old architecture and playful harbor. Every so often I'd wander off into the local peoples shops where the hot sale items were things like bikini underwear...

As night fell, I queried (in very broken Portuguese) where I might catch a bus over to Aeroclub. Eventually, someone walked me over to a spot and I waited. It's such a very strange sensation to be on a dizzying ride all over a largely unknown city just trusting that at some later moment the bus will stop at this little outpost where I know the pathway up to one particular house. It's certainly an exercise of immense surrender and trust...

Bahia Entry

2011-02-01T04:42:00.000-08:00

Much of why I wanted to come to Brazil was to witness the energy of the Afro-Brazilian Culture which habits the country's eastern coast. As I arrived, I gently let it unfold. My seatmate on the plane was a heavy Bahian Mama who only spoke Portuguese - somehow we sorted out that she'd been visiting her ex (a very skinny guy) in Sao Paolo and that sometime after having a kid together she'd fallen in love with someone else. We giggled at the photos she took on her cellular of both of us sitting together eating Azul airways potatoe chips.

Outside of the airline terminal I waited for a colectivo that would take me to "Aeroclub" the neighborhood of Albert, my new couchsurfing host. Eventually the bus came--and his directions worked just fine. (Look for a house with a green wall that's between these two restaurants which is directly next to a hotel-suppy store.). Albert's house is big and full of potential, but at the moment it has pretty much nothing but an excellent Internet connection and a couple of air mattresses. I managed. Albert is one of those well-traveled people with a top-notch education (graduate degrees from Stanford) whose current passions are eco-sustainability (he has a plot of land he's developing up in the mountains) and couchsurfing. His home is like an intellectual flop house wherein he handpicks interesting people to come by and visit. He sponsors internships for recent college grads and keeps his fingers poked in many cultural holes. While here my services as a sexologist have been called on several times to help wayward visitors sort things out.

Albert, my host, enjoying morning coffee (and of course conversation)

Soon after my arrival he announced that there would be this amazing band playing in the old city and that we should all go down and hear them. Being that it was going to be packed with people and the risks of thievery would be super-high, I put on a thin dress, sandals and stuffed 10 Reales in my bra. For safety I left my purse and beloved camera back at the house.

The bus followed the edge of the harbor down to Pelhourina, the old city of Salvador. The area was once the capital of Brazil -- and the king of Portugal/Brazil chose to have his residence here rather than in non-tropical Portugal. We got off the bus near a central square and the energy was thick with Bahian women cooking up fried patties which they then stuffed with shrimp, veggies and a pungent sauce. Beer abounded as did fresh whole coconuts. The band was playing below and we ventured closer. It was as crowded as a Santa Monica pier concert ...with super-intense Bahian energy. I wanted to get closer and then we saw a pickpocketer in action examining a wallet with credit cards and a gold chain. It spooked me, despite that I came with nothing to steal (other than my Bahian virginity).

Eventually we found a quieter cove with a different band and danced. I felt like I'd arrived--finally groking the Bahia I'd so wanted to feel. After a while we ambled back to the main plaza, ate, drank and chatted with an ever-expanding table of couchsurfers. When I couldn't keep my eyes open another minute we got back on the bus and took the long ride back to Albert's home. The bus itself became a party as the riders continued to belt out songs and dance. What an amazing spot of the world!

Flying Azul

2011-01-31T02:43:00.000-08:00

In the interest of saving money and traveling like a Brazilian, I booked a flight from Sao Paolo to Salvador on Azul which must be the Southwest of Brazil. They give free snacks on board and check an inordinate amount of bags for free.

The two hour flight pretty much took all day to negotiate - which in any case was a lot better than a 35-hour bus ride... First I walked about 10 blocks to catch a local bus which took me to the El Dorado Shopping Center. There I caught a free shuttle to Campinhas (an airport which is about 90 minutes from Sao Paolo.) It might be the equivalent of catching a shuttle from Century City to the Ontario Airport. Then I stood in a really long line to check my bag and get a boarding pass. By the time I reached the front of the line, it looked like the plane would be leaving within 10 minutes. I held my anxiety to myself and just put one foot in front of the other. Then my carry on bags were quickly screened - no need to remove shoes, pull out laptops, separate liguids, just a quick whiz of a screening and suddenly I was ushered on board Azul. All announcements were in Portuguese -- no need for translations because very few non-Portuguese discover Azul. (I'm glad I did).

The entertainment was a variety of sports, talk and travel shows and the snacks included cold drinks, chips, cookies and strong hot coffee.

Fast Food Around Sao Paolo

2011-01-31T02:36:00.000-08:00

Very popular -- and they bring their laptops here, too!
A Brazilian Chain, but definitely a USA inspiration

Habib's is all over Brazil - cheap and (I suppose) tasty

And they love everything from the USA - especially the McDonald's Sorvetes (ice cream)

Museo of the Portuguese Language

2011-01-31T02:27:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite activities in Sao Paolo was going to the absolutely world class museums. I was privy to amazing photography and top-notch sculpture and painting from all over the world. One of the most intriguing was the Portuguese Language Museum. Here one could consider cultural history through language. It made the use of words come alive!
He who is able to use words well is able to read the soul ...

Digram of the origins of Brazilian Portuguese...so many influences and such a rich language.

skyscrapers of Sao Paulo

2011-01-31T02:24:00.000-08:00

The cult of the body

2011-01-31T02:17:00.001-08:00

Drug stores are found everywhere - inside subway stations - on nearly every street corner -- feeling better must be a national passion.

Tattoing and piercing are very big here - at least as popular as in LA...

Wig store -- with many options -- nail and hair salons abound as well

Being buff is very big here --

Luz Station in Sao Paolo

2011-01-31T02:15:00.000-08:00

This station is the equivalent of Grand Central in NYC. Lots of connections and a bit dizzying.

Enjoying a Beer in Sao Paulo

2011-01-31T02:14:00.000-08:00

Not by the book

2011-01-31T02:00:00.000-08:00

Brazilian functionaries were forever bending the rules for me. When I got off the train in Sao Paulo and appeared at the station Sanitario (bathroom) with no Reales the attendant readily admitted me. At one museum I didn't have change for a full price ticket and was sold a half-price student ticket. At another museum they told me if I were 60, I could get in for free. I smiled "yes" and took a two year jump on being a Brazilian senior.

Unlike in the US where cashiers behave like mindless functionaries, here everyone is alive, engaging the moment however it appears. So refreshing!

Sao Paolo's Homeless

2011-01-31T01:56:00.000-08:00

They sleep on streets, in parks, and relative to other parts of the world are very laid back in their begging...

Cajeros Electronicos

2011-01-31T01:54:00.000-08:00

Once I figured out what they were called, they became my friends:)

anxiety about thievery in Sao Paulo

2011-01-31T01:18:00.000-08:00

This poster is all over the subways - alerting riders to be conscious of the whereabouts of their purses, wallets and cell phones. In many of the downtown plazas there were mini-police brigades watching over.

Walls of Sao Paulo

2011-01-31T01:15:00.000-08:00

These are from the downtown Se section of Sao Paulo ...

Brazilian Sunset

2011-01-31T01:13:00.000-08:00

Shot during my 17-hour semi-cama bus ride....

The shot that woke up my camera

2011-01-31T01:09:00.000-08:00

I thought this shot was so Sao Paolo -- busy intersection with faint pink clouds in the distance -- I wanted it so much that the energy from it (may have) caused my non-retracting lens to wake up:)

Busses or Planes

2011-01-30T01:52:00.000-08:00

A couple of days before I left for South America, I was told about a tourist airpass program which sounded great, but I couldn't qualify for it because I didn't then have a Brazilian Visa and I wasn't going to being flying into Brazil from the U.S. I figured I'd take busses. While the super-cama bus from Buenos Aires to Iguazu was fun, dreamy and relaxing, the semi-cama ride from Iguazu to Sao Paolo was cold and made way too many stops. I was intent upon going to Salvador, Bahia which as I gathered would be a 35 hour bus ride from Sao Paolo. Ouch! Perhaps I should change my plans and just head down to Rio and blow off the region I most wanted to see.

I poked around some U.S. based search engines and was told things like flights from Sao Paulo to Salvador are unusual destinations -- suggesting that I would have to route myself into and out of Miami. Obviously I needed some local help! Rosaly, my couchsurfing host, got on a Brazilian website and found some one-way direct flights that would take about two hours and would cost about $150. We tried countless times to book a ticket, but having a non-Brazilian credit card, the system kept rejecting my request. Finally we went out for some beer at a local cafe and figured it could be addressed manana.

In that Rosaly had students coming over (she teaches English to Brazilian professionals), she suggested I go over to Avenida Paulista -- a main street and that I'd easily find a travel agency to do the booking. It was not easy. All I could find were hair and nail salons, fashion boutiques and the ubiquitous drug stores (they are everywhere--in subway stations, shopping centers, little kiosks, etc.) At one point I saw a flag that looked like an airplane -- I got excited until I realized it was just a sign for another clothing shop. Then out of nowhere I found Tam Airways. They only book for Tam and if I wanted to fly Azul (with the cheap flight), I'd have to go across the street to a shopping complex. At the complex I found a student travel agency which only books for out of the country travel. Then down the way I found just a regular travel agency. Yes, they'd book the flight (and another one from Salvador to Rio), but due to my U.S. credit card, I'd have to pay cash. No problem I thought. I headed for the nearest cajero electronico and it would not give me the large quantity of cash I requested ($350). I headed across the street thinking "here's the business center of Sao Paolo and I can't manage to get a very reasonable amount of cash...what is going on??" Fortunately the Banco de Brasil cajero electronico complied and I was in business, too. With air tickets in hand, I felt this wave of relief - no more semi-camas - and the rest of my connections all lined up! Yeah!

Dealing with Details in Sao Paolo

2011-01-30T01:26:00.000-08:00

I arrived in Sao Paulo a bit disheveled and my couchsurfing host, Rosaly, did much to help me straighten stuff out. First I felt messy and sweaty from the 17 hour bus ride and immediately was invited to take a shower. Then I had a suitcase full of dirty clothes which also got addressed. Her washing machine was a bit iffy so the stuff that came out spotty got taken downstairs to the very efficient Lavanderia.

The next day after sleeping off the bus ride (I vowed to if at all possible to avoid "semi-cama collectivos" especially without a blanket...) I ventured over to one of Sao Paulo's top museums, MASP (Museo del Arte de San Paolo). The art and culture scene here is fantastic. Not a tourist-oriented city -- but an absolutely sophisticated one. Being here reminds me much of Manhattan with a super-extensive subway system - and much emphasis on fashion, high culture, etc.

I tried to take a picture with my beloved 6 megapixel Canon Elph and lo and behold the lens would not extend properly. I restarted it many times to no avail. While travelling the camera is my notepad...an extension of me. For it to not be working was absolutely devastating. I went searching for an electronics shop and all I could find were parking garages and eateries. There were kilo restaurants, cafes, fast food (spelled that way in English), Japanese restaurants, Starbucks (yes they're here in semi-abundance). Finally I found a small version of a Best Buy type shop and showed a salesperson my camera. They don't fix cameras -- only sell new ones. I could buy an updated version of my camera for around $800.

I figured I'd keep looking. Eventually I found my way to a camera repair shop (in the Se downtown area). It was on the 8th floor looking over downtown. I was told it would take several days to repair it -- they'd have to take it apart, etc. I was devastated. I wasn't going to wait around Sao Paulo for an iffy repair job - perhaps I should bite the bullet and just buy a new one. I'd noticed that Wallmart is in Sao Paulo and queried about their prices. No, I was told -- they're not cheap here. Eventually I wandered into a spiritualist shop and witnessed a woman who looked quite possessed as she was gathering up candles for her next ritual. I took a whiff of her energy and walked outside. I looked over a view of pinkish clouds hanging over an overpass. It was beautiful. I wanted that picture. I took out my camera and began pushing at the errant lens and suddenly it retracted properly..and then extended properly and suddenly all was okay!

Brazilian Cataratas - pt. 2

2011-01-27T13:13:00.000-08:00

Signage was in Portuguese, English and Spanish
Views through the trees

The spume -- this to me was the best part -- to literally bask in the spray. It was so hot that no one bothered with a raincoat -- it was delicious getting super wet!

Another wide-lens shot of the huge expanse of falls...just an exquisite place.

The Brazilian Iguazu Falls Park - Part 1

2011-01-27T12:58:00.000-08:00

Entrance to the Brazilian Park (with a brightly tiled reflecting pond)

Unlike the Argentine park, there are a series of busses that take one over to the falls. And rather than an extensive walk to see the Garganta de Diablo, after just a few steps, one sees this magnificent view--

Visitors taking in the viewSecond view of the falls -- taken with wide lens setting

Getting to Brazil

2011-01-27T12:16:00.000-08:00

The moment I picked up my visa at the Brazilian consulate (which only took just one day to process), I went down to the bus terminal to investigate busses to Brazil. Considering my desire to see the Brazilian side of the Iguazu Falls and get deep into Brazil, I opted on an arrangement in which a driver would pick me up at my hostel, drive me across the border and on over to the Brazilian Iguazu Falls Park, pick me up several hours later and then take me to the long distance bus station and get me on an overnight bus to Sao Paulo. I sensed with limited time, I'd not be able to make such connections with public transit...and it all worked out for about $20. There was a brief moment when I was waiting for the driver to appear (with the luggage that he agreed to hold for me while I was at the park) and he hadn't yet arrived. For a moment I contemplated the thought of what if he'd absconded with my luggage, etc. Despite my fears and that one moment in which they might have been realized, being here is SO good.

Brazil has a wonderful energy. Everyone lights up when you talk to them (even if you can barely speak Portuguese). Suddenly I'm no longer a disheveled tourist, but rather an interesting person to tease and flirt with. For that alone I would move here in an instant:)

The bus ride from Iguazu to San Paolo was really long. It left Iguazu at 6 pm and arrived in San Paolo at 11 am the next morning. Unlike the Argentinian Super Cama, it made many stops. And it was only a Semi-Cama, being that the seats did not fold all the way flat and one had to bring their own pillows and blankets. I had none and just sort of toughed it out. On some of the stops there were "kilo restaurants" where there was a buffet of items and the result was weighed and then paid for. No doubt a good solution to America's obesity epidemic--if everyone who goes to Sizzler, Hometown Buffet, Fresh Choice and Souplantation had to pay by weight, they might ultimately start weighing less!

Upon arrival at the bus terminal in Sao Paolo, my confusions really began. I had my invitation letter from my couchsurfing host, Rosaly, with a series of subway directions followed by walking directions. First on my agenda was to get some Brazilian Reales (my Argentine pesos were useless here) and I kept asking for an ATM. I made no sense to anyone as if such a thing did not exist. I was astounded -- how could a major metropolitan center, NOT have them? Finally, in discussing this with some men in police-like uniforms, I found out that what I needed was a Cajero Electronico -- and yes there was an entire area devoted to different ones from different banks. Eventually one of them accepted my bank card--I withdrew 100 reales (having no idea whether that was a lot or a little) and headed to the metro.

After negotiating three trains and only one stairway (most of the stations have escalators), I got off at the "Clinicas" stop and began to walk to Rosaly's apartment. She wasn't yet home and so I went out to lunch. I picked a Kilo Restaurant in that sorting out a menu in Portuguese was a bit too overwhelming. While munching on mushroom ravioli in cream sauce, salad, tropical fruit, and broiled chicken I watched some very weird shows on Brazilian TV. There was what looked like an infomercial on non-fat beer, something on a pit bull looking dog that poached cats, and who knows what else.

Brazilian Dance Party

2011-01-26T04:38:00.000-08:00

I leave for Brazil today, but last night my hostel sponsored a really fun dance party -- the lack of photos, reveals that most of the time I was dancing!

Friendly Baby Coati

2011-01-26T04:36:00.000-08:00

These babies are so used to humans they've become beggars, despite all the signs around the park advising that they will bite and that human food is not a good add-on to their diets.

A bit more from Iguazu Falls

2011-01-26T04:30:00.000-08:00

The two hermano (brother) falls
Sun through the trees and clouds

Jungle stream feeding away from the falls

Rainbow over smaller falls (one of my favorite shots)

More from Iguazu Falls

2011-01-26T04:15:00.000-08:00

Viewing Area--some of these get super-crowded
Spume coming from the biggest waterfall

What happens when you ask a stranger to take your picture and they don't consider what else is in the frame:)

The long walkways over to the falls

The peoples train (included in the general admission ticket of $25 for foreigners much less for Argentinian nationals) offers stops at two locations in the park

Iguazu Falls

2011-01-26T03:59:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, after my early morning consulate capers, I found my way over to the bus station and purchased a roundtrip ticket to the Cataratas (water falls) After boarding the bus I began rumaging through my knapsack only to discover that I had left my camera in my purse which was in my hostel room. I assessed the situation and determined that there was absolutely no way I'd be willing to miss this photo opportunity. Forfeiting my prepurchased ticket (about $2), I ran up to my room, found the camera and eventually boarded another bus. No big problema.

There are many ways to see the falls. I ended up doing it the peoples way with lots of walking and no splashy add-ons. In the end I wished I'd book a boat that circles the island below, but by then it was a bit late and I was really really tired.

View of the Garganta del Diablo (throat of the devil) -- the biggest and most dramatic of the falls...

From the edge of a walkway -- the walk ways are suspended steel -- above the jungle. The walk to each of the falls was quite long and wheelchair friendly.

Another view of the biggest fall

Staying at a Hostel

2011-01-26T03:42:00.000-08:00

Back in 2001 when I left Papua New Guinea and arrived late in the evening at a Sydney Youth Hostel, I vowed to never ever stay at a such a place again. That one was teaming with young people engaged in mindless drunk conversations--my room was filled with snorers and the next morning I found myself a private room in a small hotel.

While my plan for this trip was to do a mix of couch surfing and small B&B's, Iguazu, being a mega-tourist town, does not have a couch surfing presence. I did a web search from Buenos Aires, and booked a spot in at the Chelagarto hostel. It has a swimming pool, free breakfast, free wifi, loads of friendly travellers of all ages. Last night they hosted an Asado (BBQ) with a Brazilian dance party. The toe I'd injured on the flight over was feeling much better, and so I danced. Lots of fun and the Asado was absolutely delicious.

My room has two bunk beds and each night there have been different sleepers, all who snore. Damn. I'm off to Brazil this afternoon -- and likely a night bus to San Paolo. Who knows if my fellow seat mates will be snorers....

Visas and Such

2011-01-26T03:29:00.001-08:00

When I entered Argentina, I filled out some perfunctory form with a scratchy pen, handed over my passport and some immigration functionary scanned my credit card for the $140 entrance fee for US citizens. Not cheap, but easy.

Brazil would be a whole other story. I first found out a visa would be required to enter Brazil a couple of days before I left LA. When I contacted the Brazilian Consulate in LA I was told it would be impossible to process an application with such short notice and that I should consider postponing my trip. Then I ran some Internet searches and discovered one could get a visa in one day in Iguazu which is on the Argentina-Brazil border. That immediately became part of my itinerary (plus I certainly did want to see the amazing waterfalls).

Upon arrival in Iguazu, I discovered the consulate was closed and wouldn't open until the next morning. Yesterday morning I blasted out of bed and found my way over to the Brazilian consulate. There an elderly man, looked over my paperwork (a print out from filling out an online form) and told me I'd need a photo and 588 pesos (the exchange equivalent of $140). The one visa photo shop in Iguazu wasn't yet open--plus I didn't know where it was. Eventually I found it and the requisite number of pesos and got back to the consulate-assistant who then carefully copied my passport number onto a piece of paper which he then handed to me. He then told me my visa would be ready the next day. Life is good when the hoops one needs to get through are manageable and findable...

Leaving Buenos Aires

2011-01-26T03:19:00.000-08:00

There was a part of me who so resonated with the Buenos Aires I saw that I imagined I could stay there a very long time. In that my return flight is from Brazil, it was time to move on. Gabriel and Celeste walked me to the subway and I caught trains up to Retiro, the central bus station. The scene there was a bit chaotic with three distinct terminals, of which my bus would be leaving from the farthest. Eventually I sorted it out and boarded my super-cama express to Iguazu. It was like a dream... I had a huge seat that folded down into a fully flat bed, dinner, breakfast, wine, after dinner whiskey, and at least three movies to watch. The most appropriate for the journey was Inception--with layers of accessing the unconscious which was appropos to my dream state. The meals were okay--the focus on sugar was a bit intense..how many ways can one be served leche de dulce?

Art Around San Telmo

2011-01-24T19:04:00.001-08:00

Homeless Encampment in Boedo

2011-01-24T18:59:00.000-08:00

Argentina's inflation has been so frequent and so intense that all kinds of people have ended up on the streets.

Around San Telmo

2011-01-24T18:41:00.000-08:00

San Telmo is the Soho of Buenos Aires. It's set in the old part of city and filled with art and imagination. This poster -- advertises events I'd like to host versions of at my Casa de Pensamiento Libre. I love the idea of a discussion of Life in Other Worlds -- Brooklyn, the Amazon and the Streets: This park display features a backdrop of a Guarani Indian with a more modern statue

Window inside a delicious modern art museum. (Couldn't photograph the art, but my eye saw beauty and wonder in a window).

Reflection of the museum stairway in another museum window.

Poster about a woman and her dog who she takes on the subway to her job at the call center.

The Walls of Caminita

2011-01-24T18:35:00.000-08:00

Painted walls with dogs...

El Caminito

2011-01-24T18:25:00.000-08:00

At the Southern end of Buenos Aires the buildings are so colorful and really what occurs, is an outdoor gallery. Being summer, I wandered into a live concert, free tango lessons and a modern art extravaganza. I couldn't have planned it an inch better... Here are some of the buildings:

Many featured paintings, at eye level along the street...

Sigue La Vaca (good food)

2011-01-24T18:09:00.001-08:00

When traveling solo, food is rarely a priority. To me it's fun to eat with others, but alone, I'm likely to buy an empanada or a slice of pizza and run off to find more things to photograph and explore. On Saturday I made my way to the San Telmo art district and before tracking down the many new galleries lining the old streets, I wandered out to the waterfront. While there were many restaurants to choose from, there was only one that was well-attended. I sniffed it out and concurred that Sigue La Vaca was a great deal. And how could I, even if solo, pass up such a deal. For less than $25 one could have unlimited wine, beer, coffee, an endless salad bar, a huge grill of every edible animal cooked to perfection and a delicious dessert (I had a chocolate volcanoe cake with ice cream and rasberry sauce). Needless to say, I didn't eat again for the rest of the day....

Expertly Grilled Meats...

Salad Bar...

Local Signage

2011-01-24T17:49:00.000-08:00

Here are signs of local stuff....

An internet wifi/movie download promotion....

E is for Estacionar -- parking garages abound..they're cheaper than LA, but not by much.

And Maxikiosko's (for a bit of everything) can be found on nearly every street corner

Llamas Need to eat, too!

2011-01-24T14:49:00.000-08:00

Llamas were placed in the category of animals that needed a little distance away from their human feeders...

The Zoo Animal Feeding Experience

2011-01-24T14:38:00.000-08:00

Zebra being fed by a trough
Hand feeding....

Animals that should not be fed....

Hand feeding a goat...

Feeding Animals at the Zoo

2011-01-24T14:25:00.000-08:00

I spent Sunday joining the zillions of families who take their children to the zoo. The big standout was the utter enthusiasm for feeding the animals. There were probably more animal food concessions than there human ones. Some animals could be hand fed (and were very popular), others could be fed via a trough wherein the young feeders did everything they could to reach down to the hungry beast and then there were those with signs indicating that they could bite and that feeding wasn't allowed.

Animal Food Concession (they sold much more animal pellets than popcorn)

Sea Lions jumping for treats!

Advertising on Every Street Sign!!

2011-01-24T14:06:00.000-08:00

Cell Phone Companies like Sony and Motorola are featured on all of the newer street signs...

Multinational Corporations...

2011-01-22T06:36:00.000-08:00

While, many of the shops along the streets of Buenos Aires appear to be privately owned with names Maxikiosko (a kiosk with a variety of stuff for sale), the multinationals are clearly here...

McDonald's is everywhere...including the Mc Cafe's with a bit more focus on espresso

And Burger King is here, too.

As is Staples...

Cafe with Coca-Cola Chairs

The mascotas (pets) of Argentina also get to eat Eukanuba

And yes, Subway is all over Buenos Aires--they don´t serve empanadas, so the locals do stay afloat...

The Jews of Argentina

2011-01-22T06:29:00.000-08:00

All told about 2% of the Argentine population is Jewish..and like in the U.S. they have a compelling presence. Below is a most famous synagague, el Templo de la Congregacion Israelita

Gate designs in the front of the temple..

Argentina and the Holocaust

2011-01-22T06:03:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I spent several hours immersing myself at the Museo del Holocausto, staring into images of the Nazi Concentration Camps and reading over stories of survivors who had made Argentina their home. The Argentine perspective on all of this is unique in that following WWII the government negotiated the entry of several war criminals including Adolf Eichmann who entered Argentina with false papers, naming him Richard Klement. The exhibit discusses how he lived "entre nosotros," amongst the Argentine populace. He sold juice on a street corner and then worked at a hydro-electric plant and as technician at Mercedes Benz. In 1960 he was extradited to Israel for a tribunal wherein he was prosecuted for his role in the Final Solution, the transporting of millions of Jews to death camps between 1942 and 1944. Here are some images from the exhibit--

Poster from an anti-semetic magazine

Before the Final Solution of mass extermination of the Jews, Gypsies and Gays, it was proposed that the Jews be sent to the island of Madagascar to live amongst themselves. That solution was ultimately rejected in that being alive, they´d continue to reproduce..

Eichmann´s final words prior to his execution..."long live Germany, long live Austria, long live Argentina These are the countries with which I most identify and will never forget"

Tango Dancers

2011-01-22T05:28:00.000-08:00

Tourist Tango

2011-01-22T05:18:00.000-08:00

Interior of Tourist Tango Dinner Theater

Exterior of Tango Porteno

While doing my daily wander, I peaked in at Tango Porteno, the tango destination for tour groups--the entry fee was quite pricey for dinner and a staged performance. Late last night Gabriel and Celeste took me to a neighborhood Tango Club, Club Grisela where the entry fee was about $6 and everyone danced up a controlled tango storm...

Tango

2011-01-22T05:07:00.000-08:00

The scene at a nearby Tango Club

My Gabriel and Celeste took me to a local Tango Club last night. Very stylized dancing--controlled sexy. Not wearing spikey heels and being a bit clueless, I watched...

Me with Gabriel and Celeste

Buildings Around La Plaza de Mayo

2011-01-21T06:53:00.000-08:00

Pink Palace from Eva and Juan Peron addressed the masses...

Cabildo de Buenos Aires--city affairs were managed here between 1748and 1821

Palacio de Gobierno --headquarters for the mayor of Buenos Aires

Plaza de Mayo

2011-01-21T06:39:00.000-08:00

I hold vivid memories of stories of the desapercidos (the disappeared) young people at hands of the Argentinian military in the 1980s. The Madres de la Plaza de Mayo still convene on Thursdays--now many of them grandmothers who through extensive DNA testing have reconnected with their biological grandchildren who were raised by military families. When I go to the plaza last night I discovered there was a whole new(er) round of protestors, veterans from the Malvina invasion in 1982 who served for upwards of 17 months and were never given veteran benefits. For the last 1000 days, they´ve held an encampment to raise awareness of their plight....

Eva Peron Museum

2011-01-21T06:25:00.000-08:00

Eva Peron was born in 1919, the same year my mother was born. She died of cancer when she was 33, the age my mother was when I was born. She grew up in a small town, moved to Buenos Aires and became an actress--met her husband Juan Peron at a political rally, married and then overnight became a most famous first lady. Her championing of the needs and dignity of the poor made her a controversial, yet well-loved woman. Her foundations endeavored to meet the needs of the disenfranchized all over the world...

Refrigerators for the masses.

Children at a camp with a toy car...

One of Eva´s many hot outfits...(all displayed with matching hats and shoes)

Her funeral (projecting on full screen as one enters the exhibit)

The Botanical Garden....

2011-01-21T06:15:00.000-08:00

Delicious--European inspired sculptures...

Perfect lilly pond...

This famous tree is filled with cement...

Lost and Abandoned Dogs...

2011-01-21T06:11:00.000-08:00

Advsory about not abandoning one´s pets in the park...

A dog whose family misses him...

Marta Minujin

2011-01-21T05:40:00.000-08:00

I had the good fortune to be able to catch performance artist and sculptress extraordinaire, Marta Minujin`s 30 year retrospective at MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires)

MALBA Entrance

Young couple in bed..the installation features a full bedroom...

The bench end goes on and on, lacing itself all over the gallery...

Multi-headed sculptures. there were many in the courtyard and--each was more amazing than the next.

Mattress sculpture entrance (top) and interior (bottom) with visitors texting...

The Selling of Individualism

2011-01-21T05:34:00.000-08:00

As this poster pronounces, Every is their own world. And in this context, their own personal cell phone plan... (I do enough phone chatter at home...while here on my getaway so far my choice has been to not activate my phone and stick with email.)

Sidewalk Cafe

2011-01-21T05:31:00.000-08:00

Cafes range from casual to upscale and like Los Angeles, a full-spectrum of pricing. Yesterday I had a delicious lunch of vegetable and ricotta tart, salad and fresh orange juice for 45 pesos (about $11).

Graffiti

2011-01-21T05:29:00.000-08:00

It`s a big messy city...with no doubt many forms of self-expression!

Media Center

2011-01-21T05:25:00.000-08:00

Billboard of a no-doubt popular TV series..bordered by trees and a sky just recovered from a rainstorm.

Stray Cats

2011-01-21T05:22:00.000-08:00

Buenos Aires is litterly teaming with stray cats. At the botanical garden they are so friendly that jump into people´s laps and allow themselves to be pet and played with. This featured tabby was clearly not camera-shy.

Plastic Surgery Abounds

2011-01-21T05:15:00.000-08:00

Argentinian culture is influenced by both Europe and North America. Unlike the French, Argentinian women consider under the arm hair unsightly--and quite like many North Americans, do everything they can to look younger, more symmetrical, etc. Being that the hospitals are first rate, travellers from afar come here just to get worked on...

Argentina on Vacation

2011-01-21T05:11:00.000-08:00

January in Argentina is like August in the U.S. Everyone is on vacation--museums are closed and businesses are shuttered. Nonetheless, I`ve found plenty of things to figure out and explore...

And speaking of vacactions, the Subte (Subway) reminds riders that the transit rules continue (despite the summer vacation)

Gabriel`s Painting Studio

2011-01-21T05:03:00.000-08:00

My host Gabriel is a wonderful painter. Most of the apartment is dedicated to his painting studios where several times a week students come by for classes. I showed him Don´s painting website (www.DonByrd.net) along with the painting blogs of his many students and he was very impressed.

Arrival in Buenos Aires

2011-01-21T04:52:00.000-08:00

As it turns out I`m Celeste and Gabriel´s first couch surfing guest. Their excitement energized the morning as we chatted over tea and the box of Trader Joes chocolates I`d brought them. Gabriel´s 12-year old daughter, Valentina was visiting and she was very fascinated by so many different flavors, shapes and names. Eventually I settled into my little room and being an office, I checked e-mail. It was if I hadn´t missed a beat--all of my businesses were still being businesses. All good. After awhile, Celeste made lunch, the rain had cleared and being that it was daylight I absolutely had to get out and look around.

Wandering around a strange city while horribly jet-lagged is a strange thing to do. I`d board unknown busses, wander aimlessly, find my head spinning, stare into the distance, steady myself and then take a picture of whatever. In any case I packed in a lot and head a great afternoon!

The Journey

2011-01-21T04:08:00.000-08:00

On Tuesday morning (January 18, 2011) I began rearranging the stuff I`d tossed at my suitcase the night before. Being that it´s summer in South America--perhaps one pair of jeans would do and instead pack light T-shirts and shorts. And then there was the laptop question. Would there be wifi? Could I dodge the challenges of strange keyboards and dicey equipment by bringing my own? Eventually I was packed and my friend Fred gave me a lift to the Burbank Airport--a very small place for such a big adventure. Being small, my calculation of arriving an hour early was perfect. It took all of 15 minutes to check in and get scanned and then 45 min to make last-minute calls to friends and family.

The first leg of the flight was to Dallas. I chatted briefly with my seatmates and then dove into Stumbling on Happiness a book that had been festering on my bookshelf for years. Such a witty writer and such wonderful observations about the importance of being in one´s power! How elders in nursing homes thrived when they could choose when they would be visited vs having a weekly visitor show up on her/his own schedule. I began to reflect on this journey -- all on my terms with nothing much booked other than a return flight from Rio de Janeiro and a welcome invitation from Celeste and Gabriel, my couchsurfing hosts in Buenos Aires.

In Dallas I engaged a maze of airport trains to an International Terminal, grabbed a BBQ pulled pork sandwich and cole slaw and boarded what would be a very long flight to Buenos Aires. I`d selected a seat in the back of the plane on a long row with almost no one, hoping I`d be able to stretch out for at least some of the journey. I entertained myself by watching an endless array of movies, TV shows, etc. It was kind of a blur -- the ones that stand out were a piece on the making of The Social Network and a documentary on the great tombs of China with lots of tense music when the discussion of burying a king`s countless concubines was raised. As much as I could I stetch myself out along the vacant row of seats beside me. Every so often I`d wake up and note that we were now in Central America..then Peru...then Bolivia...and then Northern Chile. As we neared Argentina, the plane got turbulent. I`d gotten up in a sleepy stupor to used the bathroom and as I was returning to my seat a flight attendant barked at me to grab any seat right now! I flopped into the nearest seat and banged my left baby toe really badly. I yelped loudly and she asked if I was alright. (As it turned out I sort of wasn`t, but I didn´t yet know that half my foot would soon turn black and blue and that walking around would be a bit painful for a couple of days.)

As we arrived in Buenos Aires, a rainstorm hit and our plane was forced to hover overhead for nearly an hour. Eventually we landed and then the trip became a bit more expensive. Being a visitor from the U.S. I had to pay an $140 entry fee...and then it was raining really hard and there was no way I was going to drag my bag into unknown busses and subways trying to get to my hosts`place. Thus a $35 taxi was in order. Soon enough I was at Celeste and Gabriel`s airy apartment and was shown my room which is otherwise a top floor office adjacent to a sunny patio.

Introduction

2011-01-21T03:56:00.000-08:00

Back in the 80s I had a roommate in grad school who had family from Argentina. He´d describe how very different it was from Mexico (which at the time was the main South of the Border reference point I had. I´d heard how s - sounds were sshushed and that there were was a (relatively) large Jewish community in Buenos Aires. More recently I`d heard that Buenos Aires had become a major center for film and visual arts. It was definitely on my short-list of places to go... And then when American Airlines offered me a huge number of extra miles for signing up for a business credit card, it became a done deal. (My flight from LA to Buenos Aires cost me all of $5.) Part of me figured I could do a super-cheap trip and the rest of me knows better than that.